How to Upgrade Speaker Terminals on Marantz 2230, 2235B, 1060
Step-by-step installation guide for the HiFiHub adapter kit
Marantz 1060
Marantz 2210
Marantz 2220
Marantz 2230
Marantz 2235B
The original speaker terminals on vintage Marantz receivers were designed for the
connector types of their era — thin spade lugs and bare wire only. Over decades, these terminals
oxidize, loosen, and become incompatible with modern banana plugs and heavy-gauge speaker cables.
Replacing them with modern binding posts restores reliable contact and dramatically improves
the usability of your amplifier.
In this guide
- Why the Original Terminals Need Replacing
- What You Need
- Step 1 — Check Your Original Terminals
- Step 2 — Remove the Mounting Screws
- Step 3 — Free the Terminal Assembly
- Step 4 — Assemble the Front Adapter Plate
- Step 5 — Install the Inner Adapter Plate
- Step 6 — Connect the Speaker Wires
- Step 7 — Final Inspection
- Frequently Asked Questions
Why the Original Terminals Need Replacing
Vintage Marantz units (1060, 2210, 2220, 2230, 2235B) use small proprietary terminal blocks
that are pressed into a narrow rear panel cutout. After 40–50 years, these terminals suffer from:
- Oxidation and corrosion on contact surfaces
- Loosened spring tension, causing intermittent contact
- Incompatibility with banana plugs, spade terminals, and thick cables
- Mechanical wear from repeated cable changes
What You Need
Tools:
- Phillips screwdriver
- Soldering iron + solder
- Desoldering pump or wick
- Small pliers or nut driver (for M4 nuts)
- HiFiHub Speaker Terminal Upgrade Kit (includes 2 adapter plates + 4 binding posts)
The kit is specifically designed for the narrow rear panel cutout on these Marantz models. Standard terminals cannot be installed without the adapter plates.
Step 1 — Check Your Original Terminals
Always disconnect the unit from mains power before starting.
Compare your unit's rear panel with the photo. The original terminals are small spring-clip blocks mounted on a narrow bracket. If your terminals look different, contact us before proceeding to confirm compatibility with this kit.
Step 2 — Remove the Mounting Screws
For best results, remove the rear panel of the unit first — this gives
clear access to the mounting screws and internal wire connections.
Locate the two small screws securing the terminal block to the rear panel. Unscrew and remove them. Carefully pull the terminal assembly outward — the internal speaker wires are still attached, so do not pull forcefully. Support the assembly with one hand.
Step 3 — Free the Terminal Assembly
Once the screws are removed, gently pull the terminal block outward to gain access to
the wire connections on the back.
- Support the terminals with one hand — do not let them hang by the wires
- Note or photograph which wire connects to which position (+ / −, Main / Remote) before desoldering
- Desolder each wire: heat the joint 2–3 seconds, remove solder with a pump or wick
Step 4 — Assemble the Front Adapter Plate
Insert the four binding posts through the outer (front) adapter plate.
- Do not tighten the nuts yet — leave terminals slightly loose for alignment
- Insert the front plate into the original rear panel cutout from outside
Step 5 — Install the Inner Adapter Plate
From inside the chassis, slide the inner adapter plate onto the protruding
terminal posts. Align it flat against the rear panel.
Thread the nuts onto each terminal post and tighten gradually and evenly — alternate between corners as you tighten. Do not overtighten — firm hand-tight is sufficient. The two plates clamp the rear panel between them, creating a solid mount without any chassis modification.
Step 6 — Connect the Speaker Wires
Solder the original speaker wire lugs onto the new terminal posts, matching polarity
(+ to red, − to black). Secure each lug with the supplied nut and tighten firmly.
Insulating sleeves: the black terminals include removable rubber sleeves. Keep them installed for most setups — they prevent accidental short circuits if banana plugs touch adjacent terminals. Remove only if your specific connector type requires clearance.
Step 7 — Final Inspection
Before reassembling:
- Verify all nuts are properly tightened
- Confirm both adapter plates sit flush against the rear panel
- Check all wire connections are secure and polarity is correct
- Ensure positive and negative terminals cannot contact each other
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to enlarge the original cutout?
No. The adapter plate kit is specifically designed to fit the original narrow cutout on these Marantz models. No drilling or chassis modification is required.
Which Marantz models is this kit compatible with?
Marantz 1060, 2210, 2220, 2230, and 2235B. If you have a different model, contact us to confirm compatibility before ordering.
Can I install this without a soldering iron?
Basic soldering is required to connect the internal speaker wires to the new terminals. If you are not comfortable soldering, we recommend having a qualified technician perform the installation.
Do the new terminals accept banana plugs?
Yes. The new binding posts accept banana plugs, bare wire, and spade connectors — a significant improvement over the original spring-clip terminals.
Ready to upgrade your Marantz?
The kit used in this guide ships from Poland. Includes 2 adapter plates and 4 gold-plated binding posts.